We got upstairs, and there was cold Foster's beer, and incredibly delicious Venison (deer) meat sitting waiting for us: and A/C! We drank, the swiss went to bed, my host invited me to join him and his friends for a beer at the bar, and dinner out ( I had not missed it afterall! but, it was 11pm!). I went, remembering when Dan and I were offered a similar invite in France and it turned out to be an irreplaceable experience. We went to a bar near us in delhi, and there was a 5 peice, indian band, playing all the favorites: Bye bye Miss American Pie, Bobby McGee, Brown Eyed girl, and more. It was also, thankfully, airconditioned. I danced some with our host, and he found my dancing most excellent! We left for dinner at 1am, and ate typical nothern Indian style food. I'd tell you all about it, but it was sort of all greek to me anyways, and the beers had me not caring what I was eating, but I do remember it was delicious! The next morning we spent at the Lodi gardens, in southern Delhi. It was lovely, but HOT HOT HOT. It was 9am, and steaming, wicked hot. We returned shortly back to our place in central Delhi. Had lunch at a divine southern Indian restaurant, where I had Masala Dolsa: a flatbread made mostly from rice and water, filled with a vegetable (potato mostly, I think) filling, and then with coconaut sauces (even these you would like, mom!), and a soup also for dipping that was delicious. I had my first cup of Indian "Chai" (Tea), and: Wow! I'd been avoiding it for the heat and the caffiene, but it was airconditioned in this restaurant (very fancy!), and I figured I'd try. In this restaurant it's made with Buffalo Milk, which gives it a rich, creamy, full flavor. If you come to Delhi: we'll have to stop for a glass of this! After this I visited the National Museum (also A/C!), where I was impressed with the beautiful collection of Indian Minature Paintings. I took my first Autorickshaw, which was enormously rewarding.
I left Delhi that evening, and took a bus to Manali. I left at 5:30 PM from the house, and arrived here in Manali at 9am yesterday morning. We stopped for dinner around 10pm (luckily, simone does not eat this late!). I ate Thali Veg, which was a plate with rice, flatbread, lentils, vegetables, and a tofu in sauce. Then slept happily through the night until we stopped again at 5:30am. Upon arrival in Manali, I found Simone, we took an autorickshaw to her... or, our, house. Beautiful! I had some anxieties about becoming accustomed to a traditional Manali House - which were quickly discarded as I realized she had bought us a lovely, simple, but beautiful more western style house. This I am happy for, as it gives me a place to feel comfortable, a place that feels quiet and safe to explore from. A wonderful home base. I'll post pictures later today. I essentially have the second floor, which is windows on 3 sides, all with views of the mountains. A large porch on both floors, means good space for eating and also for me to have some privacy. We lounged and talked, Simone made me some yummy foods. Then her friend, Takur came over.
Takur is a Manali Man. He is part of one of the first 4 major families in Manali. He has lived here his whole life, never left. Does not want to go to Delhi - does not like the idea of the heat, and all the people. Takur sat with us, told me about his life - and moreover, the life of the Kullu Valley (where Manali is located). The life all the way back to the beginning of the world, which Indian mythology prescribes to have begun here. We had some Chai, made with raw milk simone has delivered daily from a neighbor down the path. We worked in the garden, where simone has started growing a large selection of Veggies for our fall foods. Then Takur took us on a hike to the river. Along the way, we ate apricots and plums from trees, rested near the river and had blackberries from the bushes as Takur played us music on his flute. On the way home we collected watercress from the mountainside to boil for dinner. It's nice living this way. We prayed for rain, it's monsoon season here in Manali, and still there have been no rains for 5 days - the veggies are desperate for it. We arrived home and simone and Takur made dinner, Maki-Roti (corn/wheat flat breads), and veggies. Then sleeping, for which I was ready.
It's morning now in Manali. I woke to see the fog rising from the river so high it covered a whole mountain. The dog downstairs is barking. It rained like crazy last night and the vegetables are happy, the air clean and crisp. I can hear the river that runs through town from here. The apple trees in the orchard around me are also happier for the rain. We live on a path, and I see Manali people, and tourists, walking along it. Simone has just awoken downstairs, I can hear her in the kitchen. For breakfast we'll have Maki-Roti with fresh made blackberry jam from the village. We'll go to town today to pick up a table she's had made, and to buy a new waterbasin. We'll hike, and tonight, have dinner with Hemroj, the entrepeneur for the restaurant.
There is much more to say, but I'll wait until my posts are not so long! Feel free to comment on any post section with questions (or, if you know more about india than I: corrections!).
